Wednesday, 12 August 2015

Day 403-405: To Bukhara

After breakfast with the family. Only the dad and me (embarrassed) have a bowl of milk to eat with bread and butter while the rest of them just eat with bread dip in hot tea.

Basic kitchen outside the house

Hand washing area

I rode into a village late at night in search of a place to pitch my tent. Came across a guy on his bicycle and asked with my broken Russian (and hand signalling) where I can camped for the night and he led me to his home. The first he asked was if I was hungry, sat me down where I met the rest of the family members while they heat up the food. When I needed the WC, mum wrapped her hand around my arm, shone the way with a torch light and led me to the 'outhouse', then brought a pot of water for me to wash my hands then a towel to wipe them dry. After dinner they prepared my sleeping area and together all of us slept under the stars... it was too hot to sleep indoor so usually they sleep outside at their courtyard. Before I left, mum made sure my bottles are filled up with water and asked if I want to take any bread for the road. This is Uzbek hospitality. Very overwhelmed by their kindness to a stranger who appeared out of nowhere in the middle of the night. Wanted to capture some photos of them  but strangely they declined being photograph.

Their little chicks


Spotted a moving creature at the side of road

Do you have neck injury or is this to prevent you getting beaten?

Tea is first poured into the host bowl and poured back into the teapot (repeated three times) and the forth time into the guest bowl usually half filled. If your host filled it to the brimmed its indirectly telling you to leave. PS: I'm serving myself in the photo above so its filled to the brimmed.


Uzbek Wedding
The bride and groom had to stand there the whole night with the bride bowing constantly for the rest of the night as a gesture of 'Thanking' everyone for coming.

Heard the groom became a 'Master' at work and this is a ceremony for his 'promotion'

Dancers' performance at the wedding
People will come forward and stuffed them with money
Everyone then came forward to dance. Everyone was having a jolly except the bride and groom who were still standing in front of the hall

Us at the wedding party - a night of food, volka and dancing.


Farmer's bazaar where I get better rates for money exchange with men carrying stacks of Uzbek som in black plastic bags. Location: 39.460243, 64.25515
Bank rate is about 1USD to 2600UZS and at black market you get about 1 to 4600UZS.



Non (Uzbek bread)


Juicy grapes in season

Wandering in the streets of old town

Thats basically about USD0.30

Bread delivery?

Toki zargaron

Ulug'bek madrasasi & Abdulazizxon madrasasi

The tower of death where criminals were pushed off the top

Mir Arab madrasasi, Minorai Kalo & Masjidi Kalon

Looks like crew from Japan shooting something...

Masjidi Kalon

The Ark

Medrese Nadir Devon Begi

Fridge on a taxi!!!???

Pretty details


Lyabi Hauz 'pool'


Moschee Chor Minor

Spotted Artist at work


Up close with a Mongol rally car

The legendary figure in Central Asia folklore - Nasrudin Hoja / The wise fool
One of the story (acquired online):-
Once, long ago, a very fine and expensive restaurant stood on a busy street in a bustling market town. One day, a poor man passed by this restaurant. He was tired and hungry, for he had had nothing to eat all day. His nostrils caught the smell of the delicious food being cooked inside. He stopped and sniffed, smiled sadly, and began to walk away. But he did not get far. The owner of the restaurant came storming out into the street. "Come here!" he bellowed. "I saw that! You took the smell of my food, and you'll have to pay for it!" The poor man did not know what to do.
"I cannot pay!" he stammered. "I have no money!" No money!" shouted the restaurant owner. "We'll see about that! You're coming with me to the Qadi! A Qadi is a judge in a Muslim court. Naturally, he is very powerful, and the poor man was frightened. "Hmm," said the Qadi, when he had heard the story. "Well, this is an unusual case. Let me think. Come back tomorrow, and I'll pronounce the sentence." What could the poor man do? He knew whatever sum the Qadi demanded, payment would be impossible.

All night long he tossed and turned, unable to sleep for worry. When dawn came he said his prayers and, tired and dejected, made his way to the Qadi's court. As he passed the mosque he spotted a familiar figure - Nasrudin the mullah. Suddenly, his heart lifted. For he knew that Nasrudin was a clever man, who was sure to be able to think of a way around the problem. He poured out his story,
and Nasrudin agreed to come to the court and speak for him. The rich restaurant owner was already at the court, chatting with the Qadi. The poor man saw that they were friends, and feared the judgment would go against him. He was right. The Qadi began heaping insults upon the poor man as soon as he saw him, and ordered him to pay a very large sum of money. At once, Nasrudin stepped forward.
"My lord," he said to the Qadi. "This man is my brother. Allow me to pay in his place."

Then the mullah took a small bag of coins from his belt and held it next to the rich man's ear. He shook the bag, so that the coins jingled. "Can you hear that?" asked Nasrudin. "Of course," the man replied, impatiently. "Well, that is your payment," said the mullah. "My brother has smelled your food, and you have heard his money. The debt is paid." And, in the face of such argument, the case was settled and the poor man went free.


Samsa in making... cheap dinner sorted (selection of cheese, potato or meat)

10 Aug 15: 72.81km [Sunny, headwind]

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