Friday, 2 October 2015

Day 454-457: To Yamg

Light food before they cooked me stir fry potatoes for dinner

After asking a girl who was walking her cow back home if there was anywhere to camp, she nod and gestured me to follow her. I quickly drew many onlookers when I entered the village and this family opened their door and showed 'come'... I turned to the girl and she gave me a nod... another warm night indoor

They even put the heater on for me.. the heater has no plug, it is connected with the exposed wires to the socket

Good night and happy dreams


I met grandpa outside the village and he stopped me, filled up a bottle of water from the 'spring' and insist I take it with me. Gave me a peck on the cheek and waved me goodbye.
Thank you grandpa.

 Using my camera as a binocular, just so I can have a look at the clothes of Afghan woman

Argh soft sand


 Rubbish, lots and lots!!!

Usually every Saturday you are able to leave your passport with the officers and cross over the bridge from Ishkashim to the market in Afghanistan but its been closed in recent months as Taliban was nearby

 Stir-fry potato with carrots and fresh hot milk

Was riding through Ishkashim and this young couple drove up and asked where I will sleep tonight then said ''Come on, lets go'' and I was quickly invited to their home a little outside the village. I was happy to oblige since the clouds seems heavy and night is drawing near... fed and tuck under thick warm blanket... My first night in Wakhan.


Apples... but I'm blocked by the fence :(

Fortress Kakh-kaha

 More beauty of autumn

A Shrine

Rather see a real Marco polo sheep


While passing through a village in the dark looking for place to camp, 2 guys who were still working with haystack outside their home asked where I was going. After knowing I needed a place for the night, they invited me, gave me a room all to myself and got his wife to set up the sleeping area and bring me some food and hot tea. No questions asked and they went back to work and told me to rest.

A typical breakfast... put butter in salted milk tea and dip the bread in

The marvelous brothers!


A pond in the middle of road?

Road condition

Washboard / corrugated road condition

Yamchun fortress, the greatest defense fortification in ancient Wakhan

In and around Yamg

There is good food, modern toilet, hot shower and I'm able to handwash my clothes

Stir fry potato with carrot


The stone in the village thats used for sky observation / solar calendar

The museum of Sufi mystic, astronomer and musician Mubarak Kadam Wakhani (1843–1903)
Aydar from the homestay says him and his brothers build this musuem... there is also a Pamiri home inside where he will explain the meaning of the structure, don't forget to check out the string instruments inside and Aydar will happily played it for you. I didn't have to pay entrance fees but maybe because I'm staying at his home

Little lamb

Walking through some alley full of rocks led me to an open field with a view below

A common scene every evening when the sheppard brings the herd back to the village.


In Ayder's house also a Pamiri home. Each of 5 pillars symbolises the family members of Ali's family - Mohamed, Ali, Bibi Fatima, Hassan and Hussein

My first very big meal in Tajik. Rice, meat, potato, vegetables, bread, tea....

29 Sept 15: 47.61km [Cloudy]
30 Sept 15: 64.62km [Cloudy]
01 Oct 15: 63.17km [Sunny]
02 Oct 15: 13.76km [Sunny]


  1. What an amazing place.

    Biked through here in July and also received warm hospitality. Thanks for posting. Next: the mighty Pamir.

    1. Yes so nice that I wasn't bothered to make much kilometers a day